Лодочные Моторы Описание лодочных моторов. Инструкции к моторам. Лодочные моторы Johnson (Джонсон) - надёжны как скала, они работают год за годом, плавание за плаванием.
Эта марка объединилась некоторое время назад с другой, с Evinrude, и называлась ОМС. Компанию Джонсон приобрела другая крупная компания Bombardier, которая в данный момент и выпускает лодочные моторы под марками Johnson и Evimrude. Двигатель Johnson 15 разработан таким образом, чтобы каждый из его компонентов и функций соответствовал предпочтениям потенциальных клиентов. Угодить каждому покупателю удалось с помощью большой опросной компании на территории США. Таким образом, компания Джонсон узнала предпочтения своих потенциальных клиентов, и разработала, можно сказать, универсальный мотор. На самом деле, в его технических инновациях нет ничего особенного — классическая двухтактная конструкция, с топливной системой карбюраторного типа. К тому же, модель относится к типу лодочных моторов, предназначенных для установки в среднеразмерный лодки с низкой высотой транца. Обратим внимание на технические особенности изделия — эргономичное румпельное управление и ручной запуск с автоматической перемоткой. По желанию вместо него можно установить электрический стартер. Кроме того, еще есть функция плавания по мелководью, в загрязненной местности, в том числе по воде с большим количеством ила. При этом за работоспособность мотора опасаться не стоит, ведь он имеет высокую степень защиты от внешних воздействий, подводных препятствий и т. Сортировать По актуальности По цене, сначала дешевые По цене, сначала дорогие. Suzuki Tohatsu Yamaha Zongshen Остальные Дистанционное 2 Румпельное Гребной винт 12 Водомет 1. Кричать не надо ,спокойнее Так и должна рассуждать настоящая спутница водномоторника!!! Или с инета фото. Болты гайки все дюймовые, так что аккуратней Винт 8,5х9 стоит и немного люфтит на валу вал целый ,наверно время пришло. Мне пообещали такой же - жду. The plugs were new so I did not look at them, but after tearing the carburetor apart 3 times, I finally found the plugs were gapped at about. You can clean them, the best is with a sandblaster. Then you can have a new set, clean the others for spares. You might consider vacuum packing them if for longer dry storage if you plan on keeping them on the boat. This will assure you that they are clean and dry when you to need to use them, especially if you are near saltwater. This a motor running, but lack of power is usually the result of only running on one cylinder.
It is suggested to start it up, bring it to a fast idle and with a pair of insulated pliers, pull one spark plug boot at a time. The motor should be able to run on only one cylinder, so if you pull a plug and the motor dies, you know that the other cylinder was never firing or running was weak. Here for the OMC motors, I will make a distinction between magneto ignition points, condenser ignition and electronic ignition in relationship to spark plug types. It has been found on these pre s that by switching to NGK B6HS spark plugs and in the next higher heat range the fouled plugs go away and the engine runs better. OMC finally got this right when they went with Capacitor Discharge electronic ignition. If your spark plugs repeatedly foul you could have a combination of things happening. Check to see if the thermostat is still there, some people pull them out. If the thermostat is missing, and you are using it mostly for trolling in cooler climates, the motor is not getting hot enough for proper combustion.
Настоящее и будущее лодочный моторов фирмы «Джонсон»
It might be a good idea to run Sea Foam thru it to decarb the piston and rings. Then for some reason, the recommended Champions plugs may foul out with very limited usage on the magneto ignition system. Normal gap settings are. Use of non-inductive resistor type plugs on these motors can cause misfire and poor performance. You may be able to check for spark, by pulling the spark plug from the head, and reinserting it in the plug boot, then ground it, holding the metal plug body against some metal part of the motor , while pulling the starter rope. Here, you need to have made a good connection of the spark plug to the motor, somewhere where the paint is not insulating your connection. However this spark may be hard to see if you are alone and in bright daylight plus having to pull the rope yourself AND look for the spark while the motor happens to be moving slightly. Have both spark plugs out also helps lower the compression. Here is where you may need the help of the wife or a fishing buddy. These testers are cheap and readily available from automotive stores. Another thing I would look at is the flywheel key sheared or semi-sheared? Here you can get spark, but it may not be timed correctly because the flywheel may have slightly slipped on the crankshaft, changing the spark timing. If everything else looks good, and it will not fire, this is the first and simplest thing to look at.
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If the motor is a magneto style ignition and everything looks OK, but will not start, look at the points breaker cam on the crankshaft. There should be a word on the top of this cam that says TOP. If you can not see this, maybe someone installed it upside down, which will surely effect the timing. These cams just slide onto the upper end of the crankshaft with the flywheel key being used for the proper alignment. However on the older motors, this word TOP may not be there, if so then most of us use the crankshaft key as the set location as it is usually located at the thickest part of the cam. Grind a tapered point of sorts on one end of each bolt. This tapered end goes up or the one that the spark will jump to the aluminum plate from. Thread one nut on the bolt push it thru the hole, place another nut on top, then when you get the distance you want, tighten the lower nut. Take an aluminum sheet and drill one hole in the center that will be used to attach the plate and the ground wire. Cut off the bolt head, deburr it so it will slide into the spark plug boot. You may want to use a black electricians tape or dark paper glued to the back side at the intended arc point so you can see the arc jump better. This unit has a threaded rod adjustment that has a turned end to match a spark plug outer end, a spring clamp that can be attached to a wire or small bolt head for a ground. This rod can be adjusted to what ever your heart desires. The body is made of a plastic so it does not short things out. Well this may be true with a car or a outboard that has electric start, but for a person to try to use a rope start, watch the gap at the same time, not very easy. In use of the home made tester, pull the spark plug boots, position them on the 2 protruding bolt ends, clamp the alligator clamp onto an exposed bolt head.
Pull the starter rope as if you were trying to start the motor. If it only jumps on one then you have a coil bad or possibly a bad ground connection at that coil, or even inside one of the rubber connectors or the spark plug boot. Car Quest tester STL Spark alone does not do any good if you have a scored cylinder or bad rings creating low compression that also leads to fouled spark plugs. Also if you get intermittent spark or only firing on one cylinder, you may have a bad connection at the boot end where the boot goes over the spark plug. In the photo below the insulation has been stripped off showing the arcing from the contact point to the wire. A little may be normal, but once it gets this bad, you loose conductibility. If you have done most of your suspected repairs and still no fire when you pull the starter rope, you may try pulling the starter rope in the dark of night, as any leakage or jumping of spark will show up way better in the dark. Another thing, rather rare occurrence, but it is possible that your kill button may be defective and grounding out internally. This would be more likely to happen on the and later motors using the "Man Overboard kill type switch" that uses the lanyard, because there is a internal spring pushing the button out. If something plastic internally broke, the button my still be out, but shorted out internally. For a test for this, pull the connector for the black with a yellow striped wire and disconnect this wire. This may also be hard to trace this wire down on the post 93 models because of the wiring harness inside the tiller handle and being buried under and around the powerhead. This would probably not be the case with the earlier pre kill buttons that are on the front cowling. If the motor is between a to , the ignition system is the older points and condenser type. These coils and condensers can get weak over time, may have spark, but a yellow instead of the hotter blue. Or the motor may start, run for a few minutes, then die. What may be happening is that internally in the condenser which is simply thin aluminum strips wrapped with waxed paper between them into a coil that is encapsulate into a metal container the waxed paper may be slightly deteriorated, when the energy is created inside the canister, the aluminum expands slightly, where the paper is thin, will short out. After the aluminum strip cools, and pulls back the motor may restart. If this is the case you may need to replace the condensers, and possibly the points as if the condensers are failing, they put lots of undue burning on the points, but the coils hardly ever go bad unless the outer insulation cranks so bad that they arc out to the base. Another thing that can happen on this style of ignition is that if the individual coils may be getting weak, do give off a spark to ground, but with everything together, may not have enough juice to fire the spark plug UNDER compression.
This however is just a patch and not the cure to the problem as it will also make the timing off. In the photo below you will see the blue insulation worn off one of the points wires. The gray color at the point of the arrow is the wire itself. This motor ran fine until the wire insulation got worm through, then it ran only on one cylinder. Rotate the crankshaft so that the 1 piston is at Top Dead Center. This can be verified by pulling 1 TOP spark plug, by using a flashlight, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until you can see the piston come up, go slowly, backtrack just after it starts down. The word TOP on the timing cam should be at or near the location of the points rub bar. I have seen some not quite there and nearer the SET position. You can not do much about this however. Without changing the twist grip location, move the crankshaft to the SET position. Set the 1 points on the RH side of the motor with a feeler gage at.
The points surface should be free of oxidation, not have corrosion. If the points are set off by.
So it is important to get both set of points set as close to the prescribed setting as possible. One thing that you may run into on the older motor replacement points, the felt for the cam oiler can be too long in some sets of points. If it extends under the rubbing block area, this can hold the points open. Some of the older cams have a spot imprinted that says "top" while others usually later motors says "set". The wires need to be isolated from the frame by the fiber washers in there. If the points do not look corroded or pitted, take a piece of business card with some rubbing alcohol or electrical contact cleaner and run it through the points once or twice. If you have replaced the condensers and it refuses to spark, you may have gotten a couple of bad condensers. Try your original ones just for giggles. Move the flywheel clockwise by hand and look for any jumping of the plate. Pull the starter rope, check to see if when the flywheel is rotating that the timing plate moves sideways when the flywheel is rotating. If it can wobble or move laterally, it WILL change the point gap! This is Top Dead Center for that cylinder. Set your points timing for both cylinders this way so that you get each timed to the piston TDC as the timing mark on the crankshaft is not precise enough. Those point ignitions systems worked alright when everything was right but did have issues with fire if things were off even a little bit I have also encountered one of these older engines that even after sandblasting a set of spark plugs, I could not get a test firing to ground across the contacts. I did however notice that there was a couple of smaller sparks jumping down inside the plug. Replaced it with another sandblasted and cleaned plug, but still only run on one cylinder. I bought new spark plugs and it started. I came across a puzzling situation in a motor which had electric starting charging coils, when I replaced the points and condenser, I lost fire to 2 cylinder. Upon investigating, I found that these aftermarket points were not really compatible with the one of the electric start charge coils.
Расшифровка обозначений лодочных моторов Johnson 1970 - 1998 годов выпуска
Number 1 points has lots of room as seen in the photo below. The points spring tension retaining screw protruded so far out that it grounded out against the coil body. I even tried to slightly bend the point wear arm, but could not get it far enough without ruining it, to clear the screw head on the back side. Next I cut the top out of a plastic margarine tub to form a insulator and siliconed this plastic in place against the coil body. Just this clearance may have been OK, but this provided a greater degree of isolation. First pull, it started and runs OK afterwards. The red arrow indicates where shorted out screw head is. The arrow tip is actually on the silicone with the plastic just below it. Another thing to look at are ANY wiring connections. You may have to do a continuity test on each wire. On one motor again the I found the wires coming from the points to the coils outside the flywheel area had corrosion, would only allow the test light to come on if the connections were twisted just right during the testing. I then replaced the old quick connectors with the newer "bullet type". On these old points type check any solder connection, as the solder may look OK, but the wire may be frayed below and lack enough wire to conduct enough fire. It may also be well to consider checking the wiring connection inside the spark plug boot, out of sight - out of mind. This might also be the time to replace the spark plug wires if you are having ignition problems. В противном случае возможны поломки. В России не рекомендуется применять с мотором бензин ниже Аи Среди особенностей двигателя Джонсон 5 следует выделить наличие систем: Sistem Check — визуальный контроль работы агрегата, предупреждающий о проблемах с подачей горючего, нехватке масла и перегреве мотора. По многим параметрам Джонсон 5 является лидером своего класса. Канадская сборка гарантирует высокую надежность и качество. Главным недостатком модели является высокая стоимость. Топливный бак двигателя Джонсон 5 является встроенным и вмещает до 1,5 л горючего. Агрегат Джонсон 5 выделяется своими небольшими габаритами и маленькой массой 25 кг. Модель подходит для различных лодок с высотой транца в или мм. Виктор1 , 5 янв С Джонсоном столкнулся впервые вначале х, привезли с Америки ку, новый, поставили на Казу 5М2, масло -автол, бенз и Переживали, что жить не будет на земле нашей долго.
Думаю, лодочные моторы у них качественные должны быть. Интересно услышать мнения тех, кто пользовался лодочными моторами джонсон. Сильно дороже чем лодочные моторы других марок? Редуктор один из самых надежных и неубиваемых.